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CORVALLIS, Ore. - Brian Doyle is a celebrated writer and a self-described "wine doofus," who spent much of a year in an Oregon vineyard chronicling the winemakers' pursuit of the perfect pinot noir.

His observations and experiences are recorded in a new book called "The Grail," published by the Oregon State University Press.

Doyle experienced an epiphany of sorts, drinking wine at Lange vineyards - and he began to wonder just how the dark tiny grapes came to become world-class wine. What resulted was his commitment to pursue the pursuit; to see how master winemakers sought the Holy Grail, the perfect wine.

In writing "The Grail," Doyle says he became absorbed by winemaking's creativity and labor, its artistry and science. He notes the uneven pace at the vineyard that runs the gamut from boring to maniacal. He outlines the challenges - the enemies - of winemakers, including birds, deer and disease, particularly fungus and phylloxera.

Doyle describes the process of growing the grapes, the influence of Oregon's unpredictable weather, the importance of the soil, and how to determine when to harvest the grapes.

Most of all he tells the story of the winemakers themselves, Lange Winery founder Don Lange and his son, Jesse Lange, an OSU graduate, who use their wit, patience and experience to reveal how great wine is made.

In one chapter, Doyle describes Jesse Lange's attempt to educate him on the aroma, bouquet or "nose" of pinot noir. Writes Doyle:

"A young pinot noir just bottled will generally be a little fruity, with hints of cherry, raspberry, strawberry, blackberry, plum currant...But a well-made pinot will deepen as it ages, and reveal darker flavors - chocolate, smoke, truffles, almonds, tobacco, tea, leather, cedar, roses, mushrooms, licorice, mint."

"Cedar? I ask. Mint? Is this the marketing copywriter talking to me?"

Doyle is the author of six books and the editor of the University of Portland's heralded Portland Magazine. His work has appeared in publications from Atlantic Monthly to the Times of London.

"The Grail" is available at bookstores, or by calling 1-800-426-3797.

Doyle has readings scheduled in the following locations:

April 13 Salem: Jackson's Books, 5:30 p.m.

April 21-23 Spokane, Wash.: The Get Lit Festival, TBA.

April 27 Corvallis: The OSU Bookstore, noon.

May 9 Eugene: The University of Oregon Bookstore, 7 p.m.

May 11 McMinnville: Third Street Books, 7 p.m.

July 24 Beaverton: Powell's Books, 7 p.m.